Nothing nourishes the Jewish soul like food. Since Sinai, mothers have souped-up our genetic wiring by feeding us love with every bite. Food connects us to one another culturally and religiously, as well as to our loved ones. Where there is food, there are Jews. Conversely, where there are Jews, there is food. Where do Jewish people eat? Everywhere!
We eat everywhere, but not everything. Tradition steers us away from certain foods (traif) and this article respects that. We live, however, in a multicultural society, and the places we eat serve everyone. With that said, we begin our adventure.
Tucked away in a nameless strip mall, Wahsun (New China) is a Cantonese-style gem you’d never know was there unless someone took you. Hand-stenciled signs with never-changing specials hang in the window, beckoning the hungry with low prices. The sparse decor assures you that the focus is on food, and the aroma from the kitchen confirms you’ve just struck gold.
Because it is family-owned and -operated, you meet Rose Szeto and daughter Cindy right away. Husband Kiu (pronounced “Cue”) is in the kitchen cooking, while grandparents play mahjong at a corner table. You can hear the wok sizzle as you survey the photocopied menu, enviously watching colorful bowls make their way out of the kitchen.
Everything here is made from scratch, one order at a time, and each platter is served when Kiu finishes cooking it. Rose will make several trips to your table to serve the entire meal, so go ahead and start sharing the family-style entrees. There’s a lazy Susan in the middle of the table and the meals are meant to be shared. Trying some of everyone else’s order is really the best way to eat Chinese food. Bring your own beer and wine, there’s no corkage fee (I love that!). Leave the plastic at home, it’s a cash-only restaurant.
Their secret to success is quality ingredients, cooked to order, brought to you with the pride of family ownership. Service takes a little while, but it’s well worth the wait. You can order hot tea and sip while you wait. Let the pot steep for a while. It is a gracious Chinese custom to pour tea for someone else and not for yourself, so keep your dining companion’s cup full. Hopefully they will be as kind to you but they might need a little instruction. Other beverages come in cans with a glass of ice. Remember, we are not here for the ambiance; we’re here for the adventure.
Here are some of the dishes I tried:
Yu-Shan Eggplant [$7.95] Tender slices of Japanese eggplant, with meat, chicken and onions in a savory sauce. Dishes are served with white rice. It’s Chinese comfort food, but don’t eat it all, it’s fabulous the next day.
Steamed Fish [$15.95] A whole steamed flounder served with hints of fresh ginger, scallions, and carrots dressed in a flavorful soy sauce. The meat easily peels away from the bones. Though a whole fish can seem intimidating, Rose can show you how it’s done and you’ll be an expert next time.
Half Roasted Duck [$7.95] Crispy, salty, juicy, fatty goodness. When I told Rose I’ve only had duck this good one other place (a Phoenix-area Thai restaurant) she said, “Yeah, they get it from us.”
Sweet and Sour Chicken a la Carte [$7.95] Hand-cut pieces of plump, juicy white meat chicken, battered then fried in the wok to a crisp. Rose makes the sweet and sour sauce herself using a citrus base. It’s an unconventional translucent yellow sauce of dipping deliciousness. You may order this for the kids, but you will find yourself eating their dinner; it’s irresistible.
The restaurant focuses on food not décor, even the tablecloths are a little worn. NASA may find more atmosphere on Mars, but the food at Wahsun is certainly out of this world!
Wahsun Restaurant [$]
8056 N. 19th Ave.
Phoenix, AZ 85021
Open for lunch and dinner. Closed Thursday.
Cash only. 602-955-4606.
Contact A. Noshman at a.noshman@azjewishlife.com.
