I’m at a dinner party in Cave Creek, watching the sunset from a beautiful patio, nibbling on appetizers and waiting for the chicken to finish on the grill. Throughout dinner, we are talking about great meals we have had in the past and will have in the future. Talking about food while eating is a distinctly American trait. Add passion to the discussion, and you have a distinctly Jewish American trait. My friends convince me to try a restaurant they love called Local Bistro. It’s a European-themed pasta, pizza, steak and wine establishment near Grayhawk. It’s not my neck of the woods, but I do see Jewish people in there I know. A quick glance of the menu entices me to stay.
Oh, but I wish I hadn’t. To be fair, I went back a few times because even the best restaurants can have off nights, and I did find something to savor on each visit. Here’s what I had over the course of a few visits.
French Daiquiri $10
Silver rum, lime, mint, crème de casis and prosecco A champagne flute arrives holding a cool crimson drink that I couldn’t wait to try. It turned out to be a refreshing, semisweet drink with a hint of mint that made it quite refreshing, and I might add, effective. Regina $13 Wood-fired pizza with tomato, mozzarella di bufala d.o.p., basil Who doesn’t love wood-fired pizza?
It looked beautiful, but don’t judge a pizza by its cover, judge it by its crust. This thing was chewy, dry and bland. Wood-fired pizza is supposed to have a crunch, a crisp, a hint of wood smoke – and this one had none of it. There was no tomato (just a hint of a sauce), a wisp of cheese and scattered basil. Let’s put it this way, a wood-fired pizza went uneaten. Again … feh.
Salmon Scampi with Spaghetti $18
This was a daily special that our server described as small pieces of fresh salmon over spaghetti. It sounded great, but when it was presented I realized it wasn’t appropriately named. It should have been called salmon and caper scampi. I think you know where this is going. I am not a caper guy. I can do a few, but this dish was liberally doused with capers through and through. The salmon was nice,the noodles were homemade, I think, pleasantly thick and cooked al dente, but the overpowering serving of capers wiped out all the other flavors. There are caper lovers out there I know, so don’t let this discourage you. It just wasn’t for me.
Sautéed Spinach $5
This was a delicious side dish prepared in an herbed butter. Rosemary was certainly present and complemented the spinach, and the dish was topped with a sprinkle of fresh parmesan. This was delightful.
Gelato and Chocolate Chip Cookie (ice cream sandwich ) $7.50
Chocolate chip cookie outside, gelato inside, caramel sauce, mint Absolutely, bar none, the best thing on the menu. The outer cookie shell was crisp despite soaking in the gelato and caramel sauce. How they did that I do not know, but the chocolaty crispness playing off the soft creamy richness of the gelato was pure genius. This ice cream sandwich was made with skill and love. There was a hint of caramel sauce and a mint leaf. I’d like to say something about mint. So many people treat this as a garnish that they quickly brush aside. The mint is there to be eaten. Try taking small bites of the leaf in between large bites of your creamy frozen dessert. You will see what I mean. This is a must have.
Troublemaker (Red Wine) $9
My server asked about my wine preferences, which are: full-bodied red, like a cab, grapy, (although I am a sucker for a crisp cold pinot grigio). She brought me what she called one of their more popular wines and poured from a premeasured carafe into a huge wine glass, which my brain knows
helps the wine aerate, but my eyes see a serving that looks very small. It’s a blended red wine that was smooth but fairly nondescript. I did have two of them, however.
Beef Carpaccio $12
Avocado, heart of palm, mustard aioli. A very lovely plate of raw beef arrived quickly. The beef was tasty and thinly sliced, but the accompanying greens were extremely bitter. Where the mustard aioli was hiding I do not know. Was it a dressing on the greens? Was it a dip that never arrived? I couldn’t tell. All in all, the dish was … feh.
NY Strip au Poivre $29
Brandy peppercorn sauce, frites. At first I thought it odd that this steak was served by itself on such a large plate, until I realized it really was the best way to deliver a pool of the delicious brandy peppercorn sauce. The steak was tender and grilled to a perfect medium rare, and the sauce was out of this world. I went with the mashed potatoes, which turned out to be a great choice and the perfect vehicle for absorbing the sauce. I must also say the steak was a nice size and thickly cut.
Throughout my visits a few more drinks were had, and in total I spent about $150. Though the portions were ample, there simply wasn’t anything but the dessert that really made me go “yum.” Perhaps the Local Bistro is for the locals. It’s certainly not worth the drive.
Local Bistro $$$ | 20581 North Hayden Road | Scotssdale, AZ 85255 | 480-302-6050
Contact A. Noshman at a.noshman@azjewishlife.com
