Where do people tend to gather at a dinner party? In the kitchen, of course, and that is why the word is so prominently featured in the name of Chelsea’s Kitchen. The kitchen is also the first thing you see and become a part of as you enter. One quickly senses that this place is about home and comfort food.
The name also begs the question, “Who is Chelsea?” The bartender’s answer: “There isn’t anyone named Chelsea.” And that’s when I realize the owners have a sense of homage as well as a sense of humor. Chelsea is a district in London located on the north bank of the Thames, and this restaurant, Chelsea’s Kitchen, is located on the north bank of the Arizona Canal, in a building that used to house a restaurant called North Bank. That’s sentimental and funny. There’s even an old North Bank menu from the ’70s mounted on the wall (which lists the most expensive entrée as $7.95, by the way).
Everyone has their own definition of comfort food. I would say it has to have two main components. The first is generally style or texture — a dish that is rich, creamy, soft and flavorful. The second component is more personal, more sentimental. Food can stir feelings as easily as scrapbooks or old photographs.
This restaurant is busy and loud, but also inviting and beautiful. Completely remodeled, it is an interesting blend of industrial architecture with exposed metal beams and ducts, along with homey touches like shaded lamps that softly light the dining area. There’s a very functional indoor/outdoor bar and a beautiful patio for cocktails and dining. The patio is covered by mature trees which offer shade during the day, and they are beautifully lit at night. The huge fireplace and portable tableside heaters make it comfortable enough to enjoy dining at night during the winter months. Inside, the wooden walls and big picture windows make it feel like home.
The staff is very friendly and easily made substitutions for me so I could stick with either dairy or meat meals. Here’s what I had over the course of a few visits:
Deviled Eggs [$4] Remember how I said this place was about comfort food? Right off the bat there’s an appetizer from my childhood. Nobody made deviled eggs better than my aunt and they were a feature of every big family get-together. What restaurant serves deviled eggs? I had to try these and they were delicious. You could tell they make their own relish (maybe even their own mayonnaise), but this dish was just a prelude of what cooking from scratch means here. I had a half order, though I certainly wanted more.
Ahi Tuna Taco Platter [$19] center cut sashimi grade, grilled rare with made-to-order corn tortillas, guacamole, pico de gallo, salsa. Maybe fish tacos don’t really qualify as comfort food, but when I substituted mashed potatoes for the kale salad, it sure trended that way. This was probably the best entrée I tried. The tuna was delectable, tender, very fresh and lightly grilled. I’m not the biggest fan of corn tortillas, but these were awesome. Looking to avoid lard, I asked how they were made — from cornmeal, water and lime. They were warm, soft yet delightfully charred in spots, and the foundation of the building-your-own-taco fun. The dish comes with a creamy homemade guacamole (I like mine with a little more garlic), fresh pico de gallo and salsa, and two dipping sauces best described as a garlic mayonnaise and a smoky chile. I love meals that are both delicious and fun to eat. This is a must-order.
Chelsea’s Short Ribs [$24] pan-roasted with vegetables. I substituted the mashed potatoes (to avoid dairy) with some pretty decadent french fries. There were plenty of boneless short ribs (organic, according to the menu), lean, which is unusual for short ribs, and served with a savory sauce. These were quite tasty, but it was definitely the sauce that made this dish. Order an extra bit of it, they will gladly bring you more. The string beans were crisp and fresh, but the french fries … oh my gosh, they were seasoned with brown sugar, salt and other lovely additions that made ketchup irrelevant.
Baked Mac and Cheese [$8] Macaroni and cheese is probably the ultimate comfort food and this one is right on target. Rich and creamy with a few lovely crispy parts, it’s the adult version of a childhood favorite.
Shredded Kale & Quinoa Salad [$3] sunflower seeds, grapes, Parmesan. This salad offered a nice way to balance the heartiness of the other dishes. All of the ingredients were fresh and the sweetness of the grapes offset the kale. This salad also comes as an entrée.
Red Velvet Cake with Choice of Gelato [$8] slice of cake with gelato and mint leaf. The dessert menu isn’t large and it doesn’t need to be. Chelsea’s Kitchen specializes in making small-batch gelato, and there are six flavors plus a flavor of the day. You can have gelato; gelato as a sundae; or gelato with a slice of red velvet cake. My choice was the cake and gingerbread gelato, the flavor of the day. The cake was dense, rich, moist and layered with a tangy cream cheese frosting. In other words, perfect. The gelato was incredible. How they get it to taste like gingerbread I will never know.
The Verdict:
Though busy and noisy, Chelsea’s Kitchen is an easy-going, casual, upscale comfort food locale and a nice place to go with friends and family. They are open for lunch and dinner, and offer brunch on the weekends. It’s a sister restaurant to La Grande Orange, a very popular spot just down the road. Reservations are suggested.
Chelsea’s Kitchen is described as a neighborhood restaurant. I don’t live there, but if they keep cooking like this, I could stay awhile.
Chelsea’s Kitchen [$$$], 5040 N. 40th St., Phoenix
