I am the world’s fastest ice cream eater. While those around me are savoring their first few bites, I have already finished. This skill was honed as an ASU student driving home in my non-air-conditioned stick shift truck with a double scoop cone from Swenson’s.
Tonight, as usual, I find myself finished first and beginning to drift from my group to explore this tiny ice cream shop. My senses lead me down a long dark hallway that connects to a restaurant in the same building; the aroma is heavenly and the music is cranked. I quickly learn that the restaurant at the end of the hall, Windsor, and the ice cream shop, Churn, are related. I vow to return to get the “scoop.” I had heard from friends about Churn, a delightfully shiny, tiny, retro ice cream shop featuring homemade ice cream, pastries, nostalgic candy and soda fountain treats. What I hadn’t heard, but discovered by sound and smell, was the restaurant next door. Located on Central Avenue just north of Camelback sits Windsor, a restaurant named after the neighborhood, and Churn, its sister dessert palace. Turns out this little complex is part of the Upward Projects restaurants, which also include Federal Pizza, Postino and Joyride Taco House. If anyone understands the concept of neighborhood restaurants and bars, it’s these people.
We were fortunate to have a mixologist as our waiter one night, and he spent all the time we needed answering our cocktail questions. Although I counted 118 different spirits, it was the signature cocktails that intrigued me the most.
On our first night at Windsor and Churn, here’s what we tried:
No. 15 – Apple-Infused Vodka, Apple Brandy,
Apple-Masala Syrup, Vermouth Blanc, $9.50
Served very chilled in a daiquiri glass, the first sip was all it took to know this was nectar from above. It’s the kind of alcoholic drink that doesn’t taste like it has alcohol in it. Don’t be fooled – it packs a wonderful punch and most likely you will order a second.
Cosmopolitan, $9.50
I don’t know how they did it, and at this point, honestly, I forgot to ask, but this timeless standard had the Windsor touch and was one of the most flavorful cosmos I’ve ever had. Like all the other cocktails we tried, it was served very chilled in a daiquiri glass and the fresh, but subtle, fruitiness disguised the potency of this delicious beverage.
Mixed Grain Salad, $10.50
Mixed grains, butternut squash, ovendried tomatoes, zucchini, beets, currants, goat cheese and orange basil vinaigrette. Biscuit.
There’s a lot going on in this bowl.,It’s one of those salads where every bite can taste different because you can’t get all ingredients onto the fork at once. The orange basil vinaigrette is light and complementary to the complex mix. There’s crunch from the grains, and the greens were fresh. I wouldn’t be surprised if this is the most popular salad in the restaurant. There is a simple salad on the menu, but I would urge the salad squeamish to just go for it and dive into the amazing array of flavors. They called the chunk of fresh bread served on the side a “biscuit.” It tasted like soda bread and offered a nice offset of both flavor and texture to the intense salad.
On the night we had this fabulous salad, we decided to skip straight to dessert.
There are no dessert items at all on the Windsor menu, and why would there be when you are only 10 steps from a terrific ice cream store? Our server let us in on a little secret: “If you know what you want from Churn, I can get it and bring it to your table,” he said. As tempting as that sounded, I really wanted to explore everything Churn had to offer, because it is as much a treat to the eye as to the tongue.
Scoop of Homemade Banana Ice Cream, $2.75
If you are a banana lover, you know how disappointing it is to find that artificial banana flavoring in desserts, ice cream and candy. NO WORRIES! This was the greatest-tasting banana ice cream I’ve ever had. You can tell by the freshness it’s made right there with quality ingredients. Best of all, scoops of ice cream are served with wooden spoons. Why that wooden flavor enhances the experience I don’t know. Perhaps it’s nostalgia, perhaps it just gives your tongue another thing to do. I just love it.
Scoop of Homemade Double Chocolate Ice Cream, $2.75
A lot of places serve what they call “double chocolate.” How Churn packs so much chocolate flavor into this dessert is beyond me. Creamy, fresh, rich, cold and delicious – chocolate lovers will have to try this.
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I realize it’s going to take many trips to enjoy everything. After our night of dairy delights, we decided to return to Windsor and Churn to sample the meat offerings, though of course we had to sample another cocktail too.
No. 17 – Cucumber Vodka, Green Tea Syrup, Cucumber, Mint, $9.50
I’m not a cucumber guy, but I am a green tea, mint and certainly a vodka guy. It was refreshing and decidedly alcoholic, though you couldn’t taste the alcohol. This drink prompted me to ask what brand of vodka is used. Surprisingly, it is Smirnoff. The tender care used to infuse and concoct transforms this average spirit into something quite extraordinary.
Our server told us that the place “was known for its burgers,” so we had to try one.
Backyard Burger with Shoe String Fries, $11.75
Windsor Style: garlic aioli, lettuce, tomato and caramelized onion He also suggested having it “Windsor Style,” which includes sharp cheddar, but we didn’t order that. This burger was a great recommendation served on a fresh bun and cooked the way we asked. The fries were nicely done, but the real treat here was the flavorful, fresh patty. I think there may have been steak sauce involved, and you can never go wrong with caramelized onions on anything!
JC’S Short Ribs, $18
Wine-braised short ribs; parsnips, potatoes, and carrots; crimini, oyster and black trumpet mushrooms; and crispy shallots Lovingly slow roasted to a darkened, caramelized exterior with a fork tender, fall-apart center, you can taste every minute these wine-braised short ribs spend in the oven. Nestled atop equally slow-roasted vegetables, this winter medley soaks up all the flavor and aroma of the short ribs and delivers it to your mouth with a burst of flavor in a way that only roasted vegetables can. The entree is a little salty for those looking to avoid that, otherwise, this dish is a must.
While heading to an ice cream shop after a good burger or steak might sound like a lost cause, don’t worry, the shop is filled with all kinds of goodies, coffee drinks and candies. There are plenty of nondairy options for your sweet tooth. The parking lot at Windsor and Churn is tiny, but complimentary valet service is offered. There’s an outdoor patio too. The residents of the Windsor neighborhood are blessed to
have so many culinary options.
