It is often said that Jewish people aren’t drinkers. If that’s true, I don’t know any of them. I come from a long line of Jewish cocktailers. My grandfather served as his Temple’s president twice. Not two terms, he was elected two different times during his life. He was dedicated and observant. He also observed the cocktail hour. Without fail, my grandparents mixed cocktails at 6 pm after a long day at the office. Lawrence Welk played on TV, and we kids would be sipping kiddie cocktails (Shirley Temples or Rob Roys) with maraschino cherries amd waiting to change the channel when gramps wasn’t looking.
Cocktails were about winding down, socializing, having fun and spending time together. Cocktailing is an art form, much like cooking. It means having all of the ingredients on hand to meet a guest’s request, and having the tools (including cocktail napkins with witty sayings) to make all kinds of concoctions from a martini to a Brandy Alexander. The cocktail hour was also observed whenever we went to a restaurant, and I think that is a key point to my experience. Cocktails were always a prelude to food. Perhaps that is the “Jewish” part of drinking, in that the drink is not the last activity – it is the warm up to good times with friends and family. There are hundreds of great restaurants and bars in Arizona ranging from cowboy saloons to thumping dance clubs. I recently went to rediscover some classic places and to find a new one where the views of the city are spectacular, the appetizers are wonderful and the art of the cocktail is observed.
DIFFERENT POINTE OF VIEW $$$
at The Pointe Hilton Tapatillo Cliffs 11111 N. 7th St., Phoenix, AZ 85020 602-866-7500 | differentpointeofview.com
Let me get this out of the way right off the bat. The drive from the hotel entrance up to its mountain top restaurant is a bit harrowing but totally worth it. Leave the stick shift at home because it’s straight up. Constructed in the 70s by local developer Bob Gosnell, the Pointe Hotels dot the mountains in and around Phoenix and this property is particularly breathtaking. Try to make it before sunset. Here’s what we had on a recent visit. Roasted Butternut Squash Ravioli $11.75 Sage, Parmesan, Sautéed Spinach, Roasted Crimini Brandy Crème There’s a reason I am describing the appetizer first. This is the kind of dish where you put the fork in your mouth and experience that, “I’ve never tasted anything like this before” feeling. They were sweet, creamy, complex but comforting morsels that were devoured in seconds. The sautéed spinach provided a welcome contrasting crunch to the soft texture of the rest of the dish. It’s the kind of thing that makes you believe you could be a vegetarian for life.
We started with a couple of martinis. I ordered mine gibson (with an onion), she had the chocolate, which was very tasty (I wouldn’t be surprised if they used Godiva). They were $13 a piece but don’t forget, you’re also paying for that spectacular view and their liability insurance for being perched on that mountain top. You have to go there!
WRIGLEY MANSION CLUB $$
2501 E. Telawa Trail, Phoenix, AZ 85016 602-955-4079 | wrigleymansionclub.com
Built in the late 1920s by chewing gum manufacturer William Wrigley as a private residence, this elegant structure sits atop a hill with elegant views of Phoenix and the surrounding mountains. Now owned by Geordie Hormel (of Hormel Meat Packing Co. fame), the fully restored mansion serves as a restaurant and bar to its members and to the general public during happy hour. Needless to say, I am the general public, although membership is only $10 a year. On a recent happy hour visit with a non-drinking lover of architecture and elegance, we had the following:
WM Manhattan $13 (not on the happy hour menu)
Makers Mark, vermouth, bitters
Shirley Temple $3
Blue Truffle Mac and Cheese $4 (half off the regular price for happy hour)
The Manhattan was crisp and slightly sweet and elegantly served. The Shirley Temple I’m sure was sweet and the cherries were eaten. Our appetizer was served piping hot in a beautiful covered ceramic pot. It was penne pasta cooked al dente in a creamy cheese sauce with a hint of blue cheese and truffle oil. The top had crispy bits of sprinkled cheese. The views were fantastic and half the fun was wandering the mansion, peeking into all the nooks, crannies and balconies. Overlooking the Biltmore Hotel, it is centrally located and a must see.
BLUE HOUND KITCHEN AND COCKTAILS $$
2 E. Jefferson St. Phoenix, AZ 85004 602-258-0231 | bluehoundkitchen.com
Everyone ends up downtown at some time. Whether you are there for a ballgame, a play or that pesky court appearance, check out this trendy little restaurant in the lobby of the Palomar Hotel.
A friend told me about this place because of its extensive cocktail menu. I think I counted 31 featured drinks and it was hard to choose. Here’s what I had: Gran Torino $10,
Partida Repesado, Cocchi Vermouth di Torino, grapefruit peel and Dons Mix
About half way through the drink menu I see the Gran Torino. More importantly, I see Partida Tequila. Partida is one of my favorite tequila brands and repesado (dark, aged) is my favorite style. You don’t see it often in bars as they are a small batch distiller, so if you do see it, get it. This drink was great. Slightly sweet with honey and citrus tones but the ingenious part, the truly ingenious part, was the ice cube. There was one giant ice cube that never melted. Using a large, dense, chunk of ice like that keeps the drink cold without water melt- ing to dilute it. This cocktail was made with love. Here, the views aren’t of the mountains, but of the shiny people inside. Shishito Peppers $5 Blistered peppers, miso, sesame seeds, sel gris I am a sucker for roasted vegetables, especially peppers. As my server delivered the bowl he cautioned me that these are mild but there’s always one hot one in there. “It will be pleasant,” he said, “but definitely hotter than the rest.” I loved the smoky, salty flavor and yes, there was the hot one, actually two of them. Kennebec Potato French Fries $6 With rosemary, parmigiano-reggiano, rooster aioli These were crisp and delicious, heavily seasoned as they should be, and the aioli dip was quite nice. Let’s face it, cocktails are good and they serve a lovely function, bringing people together. I haven’t been Temple president yet, not even once, but I bet my grandparents are proud of me for keeping the cocktail tradition alive. I wish I could have a drink with them. I bet they wish the same thing.
Contact A. noshman at [email protected]
