I have been coming to TexAZ Grill since the mid-1980s, but I learned something new on my last visit. The owner, Steve Freidkin, is Jewish. Maybe this article should be called “Where Do Jewish People Cook?” The answer to that is the northeast corner of 16th Street and Bethany Home Road for 30 years. Tucked into a strip mall with difficult parking (like all the good restaurants) sits a windowless local gem decorated with truckers’ hats and license plates – and reverberating to the tunes of Lyle Lovett on the jukebox. What you are going to get here is great food and great hospitality – and I guarantee at some point, someone will call you “hon.”
Folks who have lived here awhile may remember that this restaurant started out as Lone Star Steaks, and for years they quietly churned out down-home favorites to an adoring crowd. Along came a national chain with the name Lone Star in it and threatened to sue this little homegrown restaurant. Rather than fight the corporate behemoth, the hero of the story simply chose to change the name and focus on food. I can tell you, while the national chain may have repeat customers, it can’t command the loyalty of those at TexAZ Grill. It is full of diners whom the staff know by name, and who feel like they are sitting in a friend’s kitchen. Every condiment known to man, from honey to jalapeños, resides on your table. Though I have been there hundreds of times, here’s what I had over several recent visits:
Grilled Prime Rib, $10.50 (with complimentary cala)
7-ounce smoked prime rib, sautéed mushroom gravy, Texas fried potatoes
There’s no doubt that I like my prime rib medium rare. Knowing that is hard to accomplish when prime rib is grilled, I went for it anyway and am I glad I did. The smoky, well-seasoned char on the outside made up for everything. They still managed to keep it pink, but at this point I didn’t care. The prime rib is swimming in rich, savory gravy loaded with sautéed mushrooms, all with a hint of Cabernet. The potatoes were a hot, crispy, golden-brown side dish of love. This was a special item during Sunday brunch. It came with a wonderful complimentary cala, which is similar to a beignet except calas have much more character and texture. Made from rice, egg and sugar and formed into a ball, this fried treat was dusted in powdered sugar and served hot. As I savored this appetizer, I detected a hint of cinnamon and citrus zest in this decadently crunchy treat. Lucky me.
Brisket Sandwich, $13.50
Sliced lean smoked brisket served on a toasted French roll topped with homemade BBQ sauce, with a pickle and onion on the side
The menu description says, “We smoke our award-winning brisket over hickory and oak wood for 14 hours so availability is limited,” and I believe it. I picked out pieces of brisket that didn’t have sauce on them, and it was handsomely smoked and tender. It is a generous sandwich, a knife-and-fork affair. The sauce is tasty, but I think next time I will order it on the side because I like the brisket so much. I want to eat half with sauce and half without, I’m sure you know what I mean. Believe it or not, what really makes this dish is the toasted roll. The crunch of the charred bread is a delightful complement to the sauce-drenched brisket.
Most entrees are served with TexAZ’s famous biscuits and a salad. Now you know what the honey is for on your table. The salads are simple but fresh teasers for what is about to come. A note to the olive adverse (like me): the salad comes smothered in olives, so ask to have them held if you are so inclined. Olive lovers, however, will rejoice!
TexAZ Grill is as rich in history as it is rich in good food. If memory serves, this strip mall also housed the beloved Aaron Scholar’s store a few doors down back in the day. There are dozens of menu items to choose from, and everything I’ve ever had was terrific. The staff know their stuff and magically combine down-home charm with efficient service. It’s a small place, and worth the wait if there’s a line. Portions are Texas-sized at reasonable prices, and its kid friendly too. Kids can color their own armadillo; where else can you do that?
