By A Noshman
Housed in the bones of the old Cork and Cleaver restaurant, Steak 44 beckons to me because of all the fond memories I have of that place. We arrive at night, and the exterior seems familiar, but holy cow (pun intended), what a spectacular difference on the inside. This place is gorgeous – intriguing woodwork, beautiful lighting, sleek and modern décor – yet wonderfully familiar as the basic layout hasn’t changed. As I walk past where the famous Cork and Cleaver salad bar used to be, I remember the jelly beans. Yes, a salad bar with jelly beans. They were for the kids of course, but all the adults put a spoonful on their salad plates.
We were seated at a table in the super chic bar area filled with happy, beautiful people, but soon realized we had to yell at each other across our table to be heard. The staff was very accommodating when we asked to move, and we were placed in a quiet dining area with older folks. I was looking forward to a relaxing evening so I appreciated the quiet, but on the other hand felt like I promoted myself to senior citizen. My bruised ego was quickly pushed aside as a complimentary basket of fresh baked, and still warm, salted herb rolls appeared along with menus. The bread was wonderful and was a lovely opening to what would be a very nice evening.
Our server sweetly explains the menu and the ordering process. Sadly though, it becomes apparent that the restaurant doesn’t take any risks and follows the same tired formula of prime steaks served sizzling on a hot plate, with a la carte sides large enough to split. Though everything sounds wonderful, any hope for adventure or trying something new is dashed. Keep reading though, because this story has a happy ending.
As is true of any high-end steak house, there were fish and chicken options on the menu, but why would you order that at a place with the word “steak” in its name? To me, though I’m sure the other items are fabulous, it is a sign to stick with steak!
Petite Filet Mignon, 8 oz., $39
Besides choosing a steak, other decisions have to be made when you order. It can be prepared with or without Steak 44’s signature rub, and with or without it swimming in butter. We opt for the rub but not the butter. This was one of the most tender and flavorful filets I have ever had. Cooked as ordered, juicy for a filet, hot and the rub really enhanced the flavor. My Midwestern companion’s remark, “This is better than Kansas City,” is truly high praise.
Bone in Ribeye, 16 oz., $46
Also ordered with rub and no butter, this steak came cooked to perfection (medium rare) and was visually beautiful. It had just the right amount of char, and it sizzled a song that called to me. Tender, juicy, hot, it did not disappoint. I did take home the bone. I love my dog and wanted to share this special treat with her.
Vidalia Onion Rings, $8
Ordering these was a no brainer, though you could choose to have them as strings. I went for the thick-cut ring and they were great. Battered with a malt vinegar seasoning, they arrived crispy, hot and sweet. A perfect side dish for a great steak.
Sugar Snap Peas, $6
Honestly, I ordered these just to get away from the traditional side dishes, and it turned out to be a very good move. They were sautéed but left crispy and were very fresh. All of them were eaten, but so were the onion rings. Besides for being delicious, I felt better about eating something healthy.
I can’t say enough about the staff and the service. It is exceptional. The restaurant itself is a work of art, and it is comforting that the layout hasn’t changed, so it feels like a place you’ve been to before. The name, Steak 44, is meaningful because it is the name of the street it is on and the price you will pay for an entrée. It’s a little less expensive than some steakhouses but still pricey. All told, dinner for two was $190. Steak 44 is a great place for special occasions and for a traditional steakhouse experience without the stuffy pretension. Surround yourself with good food and beauty. You can’t go wrong.
